Copper & Heat

Copper & Heat

James Beard Award-winning podcast exploring the unspoken rules and traditions of restaurant kitchens through the stories of people that work in them. read less
Society & CultureSociety & Culture

Episodes

Southern Smoke Dispatch w/ Chefs Reem Assil and Carlo Lamagna
Dec 12 2023
Southern Smoke Dispatch w/ Chefs Reem Assil and Carlo Lamagna
In this episode, Katy talks with chefs Reem Assil of Reem’s California in San Francisco, and Carlo LaMagna of Magna Kusina in Portland, OR, and Magna Kubo in Beaverton. Reem is a Palestinian-Syrian chef and activist who was a semifinalist for the James Beard Foundation Best Chef West award in 2018 and ‘19 and a finalist for the Outstanding Chef award in 2022. She won a 2023 IACP award for her cookbook, Arabiyya: Recipes from an Arab in Diaspora. Carlo’s restaurants highlight modern Filipino cuisine, and he was named one of Food & Wine’s Best New Chefs in 2021. He was nominated for a 2022 James Beard Foundation Award for Best Chef: Northwest & Pacific.In this episode, Katy, Reem & Carlo talk about redefining success and failure, cultural and family pressures when cooking their food, and how they take care of themselves.We recorded this episode in collaboration with the Southern Smoke Foundation and Visit Houston. Southern Smoke exists to take care of our own. As a nonprofit founded and powered by current and past F&B workers, they’ve felt the heat of the industry firsthand. Their efforts are dedicated to creating a meaningful safety net of support that doesn’t exist for most people in our world. To learn more about their emergency relief and mental health programs, visit their website.  Reem AssilInstagram  |  Reem’s California  |  Her book, Arabiyya  | Hospitality for HumanityCarlo LamagnaInstagram  |  Magna Kusina  |  Magna KuboSouthern SmokeInstagram  |  Get Help  |  DonateVisit HoustonInstagram  |   Website
The Brigade System: a conversation w/ Telly Justice & Mike Sheats
Jan 23 2023
The Brigade System: a conversation w/ Telly Justice & Mike Sheats
Telly Justice and Mike Sheats worked together at Five & Ten in Athens Ga., where Justice worked her way up to chef de cuisine and Sheats was an AM chef. Once they started their own projects, the chefs knew that the strict brigade system, codified by Georges-Auguste Escoffier more than a hundred years ago, wouldn’t be the right fit for their businesses. “In the kitchens that Mike and I came up in, there was not much room for challenging anything,” said Justice. For both Justice and Sheats, the rigidity of the structure left no room for mistakes and little room for being themselves. Telly is now chef/co-owner of HAGS, a small tasting menu restaurant in New York City “by Queer people for all people,” and Mike, with his wife Shyretha, runs The Plate Sale, a pop-up inspired by community events like plate sales, barbecues, and fish fries in his hometown of Athens. This conversation was recorded as a chef-to-chef conversation for the Plate Magazine print edition. You can read an edited version of this conversation (and see some awesome pictures!) in their magazine here. But a less edited version of the conversation is here for your listening pleasure. Guests: Telly JusticeHAGS  | HAGS InstagramPress: When ‘Sir’ and ‘Ma’am’ Miss the Mark: Restaurants Rethink Gender’s Role in ServiceHAGS Will Be Queer First, and a Restaurant SecondA First Look at HAGS, New York’s Revolutionary New Queer Fine DiningMike SheatsThe Plate Sale  |  The Crowdfunding Campaign  |  Instagram  |  Email Press: Honoring the History of the Plate SaleAn inside look at The Plate SaleMeet Shyretha and Michael Sheats: Founders of The Plate SaleResources:Understanding Anti-Intellectualism in the U.S. by Studio ATAOAnti-Intellectualism int he Restaurant Industry: Why an equitable future requires overhauling the brigade systemAn Investigation in Culinary Life and Professional Identity in Practice during Internship Escoffier Kitchen Brigade System Then and Now“OUI, CHEF!” A Sociohistorical Analysis of Organizational Culture in the American Fine Dining Kitchen Brigade and its Effects on Health from 1903 to 2019Why is anti-intellectualism so popular in kitchens?
Tasting Menus: A Dining Experience
Dec 15 2022
Tasting Menus: A Dining Experience
Welcome to the Copper & Heat audio tasting menu. This 6-course experience takes you through dishes from pivotal points in the history of the modern tasting menu. Vote for us in the first inaugural Signal Awards! We were nominated for a Signal Award in the Food & drink category, and we need your help! Vote for us for the Listener’s Choice Award at the link above. Guests:Beth ForrestHer faculty bio and booksSam YamashitaHis piece on the Japanese Turn  |  His books  | His faculty bioKrishnendu RayHis book  | His faculty bio The courses:The restaurant by Mathurin Roze de ChantoiseauHassun from Hyotei in KyotoRouge en ècaille de pomme de terre by Paul BocuseSukiyakiToro and caviar by Masa TakayamaNixtamalized butternut squash en tacha from Lenga Madre in New Orleans The articles mentioned in this episode: 'Tasting’' Menu: A Good Idea Sours by Mimi Sheraton in the New York TimesNibbled to Death: Tasting Menus Can Be Too Much of a Good Thing by Pete Wells in the New York TimesThe New Generation of Tasting Menus Won’t Test Your Patience (or Your Wallet) by Brett Anderson in the New York Times More resources:The Japanese Origins of Modern Fine Dining by Meghan McCarron (2017)The Never-Ending Pivot: Amid the Omicron Surge, Restaurants Have Turned to Tasting Menus by Jeremy Repanich (2022)The death of the tasting menu by George Reynolds (2022)The Backlash Against the 'Tyranny' of Tasting Menus by Amy McKeever (2013)The Not-So-New Nouvelle Cuisine by Mimi Sheraton (1979)Celebrating the Ringmaster of the Restaurant Circus by Florence Fabricant (2014)How America’s First 3 Star Michelin Sushi Chef Serves His Fish on Eater’s YouTube (2015)
Is Culinary School Worth It?
Dec 1 2022
Is Culinary School Worth It?
Is culinary school worth the investment in terms of money and time? This is a question posed by hundreds of thousands of people as they enter the culinary field. Is it worth spending the money to go to culinary school when I can just work my way up in the industry? Culinary schools have long been more of a trade school to train potential cooks in the culinary field. However, in the ‘90s, the Culinary Institute of America put in a concerted effort to professionalize the career of chef, and therefore give more value to their school, by educating their students on more than just technical skills. But as the systemic and cultural pitfalls of the restaurant industry have become more apparent in recent years, people are leaving the industry in droves, and even fewer are looking to enter. So as more culinary schools close their doors, how do educational institutions answer the question - is culinary school worth it?Guests: Krishnendu RayHis book  | His faculty bioBeth ForrestHer faculty bioHanalei SouzaHer website  |  Instagram  |  Her bookAnnika AlturaInstagram Kiah FullerHer website  |  Instagram Resources: To read more about what we talked about in this episode: Pros & Cons & Thoughts: Is Going to Culinary School Worth It?A Fast, Frugal Track to a Cook’s Career? Community CollegeCulinary school enrollment drops even as need soars at restaurantsDoes Biden’s Student Loan Forgiveness Plan Extend to Culinary School Students?Three Charts That Show Why Culinary School Is Not Worth ItIs Culinary School Still Worth It? Four Chefs Weigh InCulinary School: The Pros and Cons of Culinary Education
Meat Your Butcher: The Craft of Cutting Meat
Nov 10 2022
Meat Your Butcher: The Craft of Cutting Meat
Meat in the U.S. has had a complicated history which in recent years has spurred on the resurgence of interest in whole animal butchery and neighborhood butcher shops. But even as meat prices have risen, how have the people working behind the counter been affected?In this episode, we speak with 2 butchers who have had very different careers within the world of butchery. There’s Edgar (he/him), whose career includes 20 years at Texas Roadhouse and 5 at Belcampo Meat Co. Then there’s HJ (they/them), who has worked all over the country including Blue Hill at Stone Barns, The Meat Hook in Brooklyn, and now co-owns Pasture PDX, a small craft butcher shop, in Portland, OR with their business partner Kei. Guests:  HJ Schaible (they/them)Their website  |  Instagram Edgar Cisneros (he/him)Instagram  Resources: To read more about what we talked about in this episode: The price of plenty: how beef changed AmericaWhole Animal Butchery: The Growth, the Problems, and the FutureChef’s Fable: Blue Hill at Stone Barns’ alluring story — that a fine dining restaurant could be a model for changing the world — seduced diners, would-be employees, and thought leaders alike. But former employees say that narrative often obscured a more complicated reality.After sourcing scandal, Belcampo Meat Co. abruptly closes stores, restaurantsFormer sustainable meat darling Belcampo suddenly shuts down all operations: The news follows a summer controversy over mislabeling meatsThe Instagram thread of the employee who called Belcampo out This episode is supported by BentoBox and Clover. To learn more about their all-in-one platform for websites, online ordering, world-class point-of-sale, and payment solutions, check out getbento.com/better.
Screen to Table: Influencing the Craft of Cooking
Oct 27 2022
Screen to Table: Influencing the Craft of Cooking
As cooks and others from the restaurant industry leave traditional jobs to strike out on their own, what does it mean for the craft of cooking?Food is an inherently sensual thing. Sure, it needs to look visually appealing, but that doesn't necessarily say that you are good at the craft of cooking. Does it taste good? Does it smell good? As social media becomes increasingly essential to growing a food business, how does that affect the people working in food every day and how they approach their craft?In this episode, we're talking to 3 different people who work in food and the different ways they use social media – and how social media has affected their identities as food professionals.Guests: Chris Martin (she/her)Her website  |  Instagram  |  RedditHanalei Souza (she/her)Her website  |  Instagram  |  Her bookDevan Rajkumar. (he/him)His website  |  Instagram  |  TikTok  |  YouTubeResources: To read more about what we talked about in this episode: $10,000 for one Instagram post? How food influencers can make or break restaurantsHow to Be Food Famous​​How to tell the difference between a journalist and a food influencerFood Instagram: Identity, Influence & Negotiation by Emily J.H. Contois & Zenia KishThe video clips in this episode come from:How Instagram can make or break a restaurantRestaurant Owner Slams Influencers Asking For Free Stuff In A PandemicTikTok opening ghost kitchens How Taking Pictures of Food Can Be a Full-Time Job — The Business of Going Viral Part 2/4This episode is supported by BentoBox and Clover. To learn more about their all-in-one platform for websites, online ordering, world-class point-of-sale, and payment solutions, check out getbento.com/better
Abalone: The Cost of Consumption
Sep 29 2022
Abalone: The Cost of Consumption
How have chefs and the restaurant industry contributed to the near-extinction of abalone, the prized mollusk often associated with fine dining?Indigenous tribes up and down the coast of what is today California have been eating abalone for thousands of years. In the 20th and 21st centuries, the influx of non-native folks led to the hunting, fetishization, and overconsumption of abalone. From San Francisco bohemians who were inspired by its beauty to Japanese fishermen making a business out of exporting it back home, the rapid decline of the abalone population led to the government instituting a ban on abalone fishing. In this episode, we explore the various forces that led to the near-extinction of abalone and how the government ban has criminalized the millennia-old culinary customs of indigenous people like Hillary Renick, a Pomo-Paiute woman who has risked jail time and fines in order to keep those food traditions alive.TW/CW - we discuss the trauma associated with the colonization of the United States and topics such as genocide and gun violence.  Guests: Ann Vileisis (she/her)Her website  |  Buy the bookHillary Renick (she/her)About Hilary  |  The High Country News Article  |  TEDxArchivorium with HillaryDoug Bush. (he/him)Cultured Abalone Instagram  |  Buy Cultured Abalone  Resources: To read more about what we talked about in this episode: Native Food Profiles/Oral HistoriesAbalone Tales: Collaborative Explorations of Sovereignty and Identity in Native CaliforniaHistory: Hidden Treaty of Temecula robbed Indigenous people of their landsGenocide and the Indians of California, 1769-1873The Gold Rush Impact on Native TribesCalifornia’s Little-Known GenocideTraditional Foods and Indigenous Solidarity by Hillary RenickAbalone : It takes two years to grow one small mollusk, but biologists are trying to make all that time pay off with a crop that will be a big hit with gourmetsCalifornia Is Destroying Its Cultural Heritage as Abalone Verges on ExtinctionTroubled Waters for Abalone Farms ProposalIn California’s abalone country, the hunt continues to evolveHow Chinese Immigrants Built—and Lost—a Shellfish IndustryThe Abalone King of Monterey: "pop" Ernest Doelter, Pioneering Japanese Fishermen & the Culinary Classic That Saved an IndustryAbalone, That Delicious Rarity, Being Farmed in Bay AreaAbalone's luster grows / Eco-friendly aquaculture lures endangered mollusk back onto Bay Area menusAbalone grows as a cash crop The video clips in this episode come from: San Francisco Panama Pacific International Exposition 1915100 Story Project - Roy Hattori: The Japanese Internment100 Story Project - Roy Hattori: Diving for AbaloneHow Chef Daniel Boulud Makes His Signature Abalone Dish at Two-Michelin-Starred Daniel How a Master Chef Built One of the Country's Best Restaurants In Elk, CaliforniaHow a Master Chef Runs the Only Two Michelin-Starred Mexican Restaurant in America@highspeeddining at Minibar by José AndrésAstounding Eats Get Better at Aubergine RestaurantThis episode is supported by BentoBox and Clover. To learn more about their all-in-one platform for websites, online ordering, world-class point-of-sale, and payment solutions, check out getbento.com/better
Foam: Chef's Kiss? (w/ Geraldine DeRuiter)
Sep 15 2022
Foam: Chef's Kiss? (w/ Geraldine DeRuiter)
What does the popularity of culinary foam say about the types of food – and the kinds of chefs – we value?When Geraldine DeRuiter wrote about her meal at “the worst Michelin starred restaurant, ever,” she didn’t expect to start a global controversy. The tasting menu she had at Bros, in Lecce, Italy, was a bizarre, avant garde dining experience, the pinnacle being the “Chef’s Kiss” dish, a plaster cast of a mouth with foam dripping out of it. What followed was a whole conversation online about the nature of food as art, the role of a chef, and the pretentiousness of fine dining. And as we dug in more, we started to see how the “Chef’s Kiss” was not just a ridiculous dish on a bizarre menu, but how foam was a metaphor for the flaws of fine dining and the toxicity of the “abusive genius” chef. You can find Geraldine (she/her):Twitter | Instagram | FacebookOn her blogBuy her book To read more about the international culinary incident:Geraldine’s original blog post and her follow upThe story from Today with Floriano’s “Man on a Horse” responseOf Mouth Molds and Michelin Stars: Chef Finds Fame After Epic Takedown: Panned by a prominent blogger, the Italian restaurant Bros’ and its celebrity chef became a global target for critics of pretentious cuisine. There was a good side for him.The Reels put out by Bros: “Limoniamo, Let’s Make Out”“Floriano Pellegrino in the Spotlight”“Strange Posters Around the City”More about foam:The article from 2002 in which Ferran Adrià declares “foams are out” and announces that they are now making “air”Once Declared Passé, Foam Returns to the Restaurant Table: From a dragon-fruit cloud to aerated lobster bisque, chefs are breathing new life into the most clichéd of culinary techniques.Ferran Adrià, Master of Foam, Whips Up Dinner: First he created avant-garde cuisine. His next challenge: Getting you to make an affordable three-course meal…every night of the week This episode is supported by BentoBox and Clover. To learn more about their all-in-one platform for websites, online ordering, world-class point-of-sale, and payment solutions, check out getbento.com/better